Travel Musings — Understated Ideas

Yes. Chicago is very windy.

Yes. The wind makes the temperature feel that much colder.

Yes. Your hair will get messed up and make you look like a dishevelled mop.

Now we've got that out of the way, let's talk about how much Chicago has to offer outside of its windiness.

I had the opportunity to admire some gorgeous architecture while in town for a work conference. The Rookery Building, completed in 1888, was an absolute delight to have explored. The building is considered to be the oldest attempt at constructing a skyscraper still standing in the city today. If you have a keen interest in architecture, the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust organizes and conducts guided tours which take a little under an hour.

The start of the tour involved walking across the road that snowy day to discuss the building's exteriors. It was fascinating to learn the design techniques used by architects Burnham and Root in the construction of the building on Chicago's swampy soil. Their innovative effort to build the central light well and include vault lights set into the floor of the mezzanine level increased the amount of natural light in the building. We also explored in detail the renovations Wright undertook in the light court compared to Burnham and Root's original design. The highlight however was the ornate oriel staircase designed by Root.

Another magnificent building I popped by was the Chicago Cultural Center. The Center is home to the largest Tiffany dome in the world. It measures 38 feet in diameter and is fashioned out of 30,000 pieces of glass. It was incredibly beautiful.

Preston Bradley Hall, which houses the Tiffany dome was ornate to the extent of toeing the line between splendour and lavishness.

It also happened to be my lucky day as I chanced upon a free Keith Haring: Chicago Mural exhibit in the building. The mural was painted by Haring and 500 children from 63 Chicago public schools. They were decorated with a range of supportive and personal messages and graphics by the students in addition to Haring's signature black outlines. The exhibit provided a thought provoking documentation of Haring's work and life amidst the AIDS epidemic in the 1980s.

While in the city, I had the chance to try some recommended eateries. J.P. Graziano is an old school Italian deli located in the former meatpacking district in Chicago. Despite the area's transformation into a hip restaurant neighbourhood, the deli remains. I ordered the Italian sub, and when the man behind the counter asked if I wanted peppers, replied with a grin, "of course, always!" The sub hit the spot. It wasn't overly dressed with sauces that masked the flavour of the ingredients. The peppers added the perfect amount of spice, the cheese, salami, hot capicola, and red wine vinegar combined together made for a satisfying sandwich. It was simple, uncomplicated, and it worked.

Next up, Lou Malnati's Pizzeria. They are a popular local chain of Chicago style deep dish pizza. I was pleasantly surprised that they offered single serving deep dish pies. I picked "The Lou" which contained spinach, mushrooms, a mix of cheeses, and tomatoes baked into their Buttercrust pie.

If you haven't tried fresh out-the-oven deep dish pizza, a word of warning. Make sure you cut a slice and blow on it extensively before putting that delicious smelling piece into your mouth. Otherwise, you'll end up like me and burn the roof of your mouth badly.

Lou Malnati's makes a great pizza. The pie was scrumptious and moreish. I appreciated how the Buttercrust was cooked through, crisp and dense, and without a soggy base. The filling had the right consistency and flavour, perfectly creamy with a generous amount of cheese.

If my stomach and schedule had permitted, I would have loved to try more local food joints. The final place I was able to squeeze in time for was a cafe called Sawada Coffee. A collaboration between restaurateur Brendan Sodikoff and renown champion barista Hiroshi Sawada, the cafe combines its gritty warehouse interior decor with a food and drink menu that pays sharp attention to detail. If I hadn't known the cafe was hidden behind a graffiti covered door, I would have missed it in the street lined with restaurants. The staff were friendly and make a mean cuppa. The brownie was bittersweet decadence. I was stuffed after! I also managed to drop by Sawada on my last day in the city to try their military latte. It packed a punch. I was buzzing from the drink the rest of the day.

I didn't realise Garrett's Popcorn was from Chicago until I googled "gifts to buy Chicago" in my hotel room after a long day at the conference. Chalk it down to not thinking of popcorn as a food a city could be well known for. I will say however that their cheese popcorn is delicious, and best devoured when freshly made. They even give you samples in a tiny paper bag if you ask when you're ordering!

From its vibrant personality, historic architecture, and amazing food and drink, Chicago is a place that should be known for much more than its weather. The Chicagoans I met were friendly, warm, and helpful. My parting impression of the city is that Chicago has the trappings of a big city, without the coldness often associated with them.

I visited Siem Reap for a short 3 day trip while in Southeast Asia in December. I'd never been to Cambodia before and was excited, intrigued and nervous. It was my first solo trip in a long while and I planned it as a small get away while visiting Singapore for a few weeks.

Squeezing through the packed streets outside the Old Market

As I rode on the pre-arranged tuk tuk from the airport to the hotel, the scenes we passed by felt familiar, much like other parts of Southeast Asia I've been to before. I arrived on a Wednesday, which meant everyone was going about their regular work week. And on top of that, as a tourist, I stood out with my pink shorts and curious eyes.

Sunrise from the main tower in Angkor Wat

I explored town the first day and arranged a tour of the Angkor Wat temple complex for early the next morning. The ruins at Angkor were impressive. Angkor Wat itself was awesome in every sense of the word. Built in the 12th century, it has every bit the worn appearance of a temple complex that is 9 centuries old. I set out at 4:30 AM for a small tour of 8 temples, starting with sunrise at Angkor Wat. I was surprised when we arrived at the ticket office to see crowds of tourists lining up at multiple booths to buy tickets. Given that it wasn't yet 5 AM, I gathered they all were trying to catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat as well.

A visitor receiving a prayer bracelet from a monk

The first hour or so at Angkor Wat was packed with tourists and various huge tour groups jostling for the best spot for a photograph of the sunrise. Professional and amateur photographers alike were stationed in front of the water with their tripods. The rest of the tour was much more meditative as I explored on my own while my tuk tuk driver waited at a designated spot for us to meet.

After about 2 or 3 hours of clambering up and down what seemed like never ending steep, high, and worn steps with rusty railings for support, I mentally groaned whenever I saw yet another flight of steep steps. By the end of the tour about 6 hours later I was completely exhausted.

One thing that amused me was the dedication of a few visitors dressed in very fashionable but impractical temple outfits (think tight fitting dresses, long flowing skirts and heels) taking numerous posed shots.

The next day I explored the countryside around the Tonlé Sap lake. It was a welcome change from the touristy busy streets in town. We passed by plenty of people trying to catch a fish or two with wide nets. Others were occupied with tending to their rice fields or taking a break by the roadside.

Some experiences were invaluable- the opportunity to take evening swims in the hotel pool and just float on my back soaking in the night sky and the fairy lights hanging by the poolside. Others weren't as delightful but instead characteristic of much of Southeast Asia- the heat and humidity coupled with the roadside dust that found its way everywhere within minutes of you stepping out. By the end of the day my hair was inevitably caked with dust from exploring the city, countryside and wet markets.

Delicious last meal I had was also the cheapest at $2.50 from this stall

I'm delighted I visited! I would love to go back to see and experience more of Cambodia.

Chicago: First Impressions

Cambodia- Siem Reap